Dishes at this homey restaurant balance acidity and texture, and highlight surprise ingredients—sardine-laced potato chips are served with horseradish sauce; chicken lasagna with popped sorghum.
Despite the hour-long wait, the food is worth it. Founding chef Danny Bowien calls his cuisine “Americanized Chinese food”; think fiery kung pao pastrami and a cardamom-laced beef brisket soup.
