Standouts include robust pork meatballs and spicy octopus, which Kuo marinates for 24 hours in a dry rub of Japanese togarashi chiles, slow-cooks in mirin until tender, and then fries until crisp. Read more.
Duck à l'orange—here a crisp-skinned breast with a stroke of ultrarich potato puree—retains none of the cloying fruitiness that sometimes mars the dish. Read more.
