3pm: Wander Kalemegdan, the ruins of a fortress built to keep out the Ottomans, who invaded and adapted it as their own defensive outpost on the hill overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube.
10pm: Next door, Cantina de Frida (cantinadefrida.com) attracts a younger crowd for Cuban-themed live music and occasional Serbian takes on Queen classics. It has an exhaustive cocktail list.
