Head along Rue Foch, a Haussmanian swath carved through medieval Montpellier to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which honours Louis XIV.
Visit the revitalised Musée Fabre for one of France’s finest collections of European art (museefabre.montpellier-agglo.com, £5 for the permanent collection).
Wriggle back through the old town. You’ll note St Peter’s Cathedral and nearby, Europe’s oldest medical school.
Move to the Place Jean Jaurès is an apéritif central, colonised by cafés with terraces. Bag a chair where you can, order a pastis – old-hat among the hip but a sight cheaper than a mojito.
Amble to the Comédie and take a table for a first refresher. Perhaps at the Café Riche. There’s no better place to take in the square’s lightly worn grandeur.
