The marvel that left a lasting impression was a weekend special of smoked lamb neck. The thought of "neck" may be daunting, but slow cooking tames the meat into soft, pot-roasty strands. Read more.
Among the breadth of menu items — including a construct called "the Fatty," essentially sausage meatloaf surrounded by a lattice of bacon — the smoked bologna is exemplary. Read more.
The sausage casings pop; black and red peppers kindle the flavors in the ground meats, a mixture that’s 95 percent beef and five percent pork. The ratios of leanness and fat have no equal. Read more.
Lifelong pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz's pork steak is resolutely meaty, with the upfront brashness of a rib steak, but tempered with a sweeter flavor and smoky finish. Read more.
The short rib — near-molten meat contained by a crust of black pepper and still attached to an imposing bone — still sets the standard for Lone Star barbecue every single day. Read more.
The brisket deserves the queue. It’s a feat of meat uncanny in its poise between salt and smoke and in its utter, irrefutable pleasure. Read more.
When ordering the coarse-chopped BBQ tray, it’s vital to request plenty of "outside brown," the burnished, perfumed crust that forms on the shoulders’ exterior during smoking. Read more.