5.30pm: Talking of which, pop in for an early sharpener at the Café de Deux Garçons. Insist on your order, or the waiters will ignore you.
St Sauveur cathedral features an amalgam of architecture from the fifth to 17th-centuries. Somehow, it's all harmonious. Note particularly the cloisters, and Froment's magisterial triptych.
12.30pm: Return to the centre for lunch on the Forum des Cardeurs by the town hall. The square groans with restaurants. Try Le Coquet at N°2 (0442 234621; two- course lunch £13.50).
